Hair treatment composition

ABSTRACT

The present invention is in the field of hair treatment compositions; in particular relates to hair treatment compositions for hair volume reduction. Despite the prior art, there still exists the opportunity to increase the conditioning benefits delivered through hair treatment compositions. It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a hair treatment composition that retains shape and reduces frizz even after exposure to humidity and washing the hair. It has been found that reduced hair frizz and hair shape retention even after exposure to moisture can be obtained by using N-formyl amino acids.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION

This application is a U.S. National Stage Application under 35 U.S.C. §371 of International Application No. PCT/EP2018/076618, filed on Oct. 1,2018, which claims the benefit of European Application No. 17197641.8,filed on Oct. 20, 2017, the entire disclosures of which are herebyincorporated by reference for any and all purposes.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is in the field of hair treatment compositions; inparticular relates to hair treatment compositions for hair volumereduction.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Frizz is generally known as hair that does not align with thesurrounding hairs, but stands up or curls independently, creating afuzzy or irregular texture thereby giving a voluminous or bushyappearance to the hair. Generally, hair gets frizzy on days when thereis humid weather and the level of moisture in the air is high. As aresult, hair appears dry and frizzy instead of smooth, shiny anddefined. The appearance of frizz and loss of shine and smoothness areassociated with a perception of poor hair health.

A common method of providing conditioning benefits to the hair isthrough the use of conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants andpolymers, high melting point fatty compounds, low melting point oils,silicone compounds, and mixtures thereof. Deposition of these materialsonto the hair surface results in hair having a greasy feel and lookwhich is undesired.

US 2016/0158128 discloses a rinse-off conditioner composition for hairfrizz reduction comprising from about 0.2% to about 20% of a moisturecontrol material or mixture of moisture control materials.

Despite the prior art, there still exists the opportunity to increasethe conditioning benefits delivered through hair treatment compositions.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a hairtreatment composition for frizz reduction.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a hairtreatment composition that retains shape and reduces frizz even afterexposure to humidity.

It is yet another object of the present invention to a provide acomposition with hair shape benefits and frizz reduction even afterwashing the hair.

Surprisingly, it has been found that reduced hair frizz and hair shaperetention even after exposure to moisture can be obtained by usingN-formyl amino acids.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a hairtreatment composition comprising an aqueous phase comprising at least0.5% by weight of N-formyl amino acid.

In a second aspect, the invention provides use of the compositionaccording to the invention for hair frizz reduction.

In a third aspect, the invention provides use of the compositionaccording to the invention for hair straightening.

In a fourth aspect, the invention provides use of N-formyl glycine forhair volume reduction.

In a fifth aspect, the invention provides use of N-formyl glycine forhair frizz reduction.

In the context of the present invention, the reference to “hair”typically means mammalian hair including scalp hair, facial hair andbody hair, more preferably hair on the human head and scalp.

These and other aspects, features and advantages will become apparent tothose of ordinary skill in the art from a reading of the followingdetailed description and the appended claims. For the avoidance ofdoubt, any feature of one aspect of the present invention may beutilised in any other aspect of the invention. The word “comprising” isintended to mean “including” but not necessarily “consisting of” or“composed of.” In other words, the listed steps or options need not beexhaustive. It is noted that the examples given in the description beloware intended to clarify the invention and are not intended to limit theinvention to those examples per se. Similarly, all percentages areweight/weight percentages unless otherwise indicated. Except in theoperating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitlyindicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts ofmaterial or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materialsand/or use are to be understood as modified by the word “about”.Numerical ranges expressed in the format “from x to y” are understood toinclude x and y. When for a specific feature multiple preferred rangesare described in the format “from x to y”, it is understood that allranges combining the different endpoints are also contemplated.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

In a first aspect, the present invention relates to a hair treatmentcomposition comprising an aqueous phase comprising N-formyl amino acid.

By “aqueous phase” is meant a phase which has water as its basis.Accordingly, the aqueous treatment composition will generally compriseat least 60%, preferably at least 65% and more preferably at least 70%,still more preferably at least 75%, even more preferably at least 80% oreven at least 90% water by weight of the total composition. Preferably,the composition comprises no more than 99.5% and more preferably no morethan 98% water by weight of the total composition. Other organicsolvents may also be present, such as lower alkyl alcohols andpolyhydric alcohols. Examples of lower alkyl alcohols include C₁ to C₆monohydric alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol. Examples ofpolyhydric alcohols include propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin,and propanediol. Mixtures of any of the above described organic solventsmay also be used.

Preferably the aqueous phase is an aqueous continuous phase. By “aqueouscontinuous phase” is meant a continuous phase which has water as itsbasis.

The aqueous treatment composition of the present invention comprises atleast 0.5% N-formyl amino acid by weight of the total composition.

Suitable N-formyl amino acids include N-formyl standard amino acids andtheir derivatives. Typical examples are N-formyl alanine, N-formylproline, N-formyl methionine, N-formyl valine, N-formyl leucine andN-formyl glycine. The most preferred N-formyl amino acid is N-formylglycine.

The N-formyl amino acids may be used in the free acid form or in theform of salts such as the sodium, potassium, and ammonium salts, or thelower alkanolamine salts (such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine saltsand mono-, di- and triisopropanolamine salts). Mixtures of any of theabove-described forms may also be suitable.

Preferably the N-formyl amino acids is used in the free acid form, andat a level ranging from 0.5 to 6%, more preferably from 1 to 3% and mostpreferably from 1.5 to 2.5% by weight of the total composition.

Shampoo Compositions

A particularly preferred hair treatment composition in accordance withthe invention is a shampoo composition.

Such a shampoo composition will comprise one or more cleansingsurfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topicalapplication to the hair. Further surfactants may be present as anadditional ingredient if sufficient for cleansing purposes is notprovided as emulsifier for the silicone component. It is preferred thatshampoo compositions of the invention comprise at least one furthersurfactant (in addition to that used as emulsifying agent for thesilicone component) to provide a cleansing benefit.

Suitable cleansing surfactants, which may be used singularly or incombination, are selected from anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionicsurfactants, and mixtures thereof. The cleansing surfactant may be thesame surfactant as the emulsifier, or may be different.

Shampoo compositions according to the invention will typically compriseone or more anionic cleansing surfactants which are cosmeticallyacceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

Examples of suitable anionic cleansing surfactants are the alkylsulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoylisethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, N-alkylsarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ethercarboxylates, and alpha-olefin sulphonates, especially their sodium,magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyland acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and may beunsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkylether carboxylates may contain from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide or propyleneoxide units per molecule.

Typical anionic cleansing surfactants for use in shampoo compositions ofthe invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium laurylsulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzenesulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoylisethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate.The most preferred anionic surfactants are sodium lauryl sulphate,sodium lauryl ether sulphate(n)EO, (where n ranges from 1 to 3),ammonium lauryl sulphate and ammonium lauryl ether sulphate(n)EO, (wheren ranges from 1 to 3).

Mixtures of any of the foregoing anionic cleansing surfactants may alsobe suitable.

The total amount of anionic cleansing surfactant in shampoo compositionsof the invention is generally from 5 to 30, preferably from 6 to 20,more preferably from 8 to 16 wt %.

The shampoo composition can optionally include co-surfactants, to helpimpart aesthetic, physical or cleansing properties to the composition.

A preferred example is an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, whichcan be included in an amount ranging from 0 to about 8, preferably from1 to 4 wt %.

Examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl amineoxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines(sultaines), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkylamphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates, alkyl amidopropylhydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyland acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms. Typical amphoteric andzwitterionic surfactants for use in shampoos of the invention includelauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine and preferablylauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocamphopropionate.

Another preferred example is a nonionic surfactant, which can beincluded in an amount ranging from 0 to 8, preferably from 2 to 5 wt %.

For example, representative nonionic surfactants that can be included inshampoo compositions of the invention include condensation products ofaliphatic (C₈-C₁₈) primary or secondary linear or branched chainalcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide andgenerally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.

Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono- or di-alkylalkanolamides. Examples include coco mono- or di-ethanolamide and cocomono-isopropanolamide.

Further nonionic surfactants which can be included in shampoocompositions of the invention are the alkyl polyglycosides (APGs).Typically, the APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected(optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosylgroups. Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula:RO−(G)_(n)wherein R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may besaturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group.

R may represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about C₅ to about C₂₀.Preferably R represents a mean alkyl chain length of from about C₈ toabout C₁₂. Most preferably the value of R lies between about 9.5 andabout 10.5. G may be selected from C₅ or C₆ monosaccharide residues, andis preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group comprisingglucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof.Preferably G is glucose.

The degree of polymerisation, n, may have a value of from about 1 toabout 10 or more. Preferably, the value of n lies in the range of fromabout 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably the value of n lies in the rangeof from about 1.3 to about 1.5.

Other sugar-derived nonionic surfactants which can be included inshampoo compositions of the invention include the C₁₀-C₁₈ N-alkyl(C₁-C₆) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as the C₁₂-C₁₈ N-methylglucamides, as described for example in WO 92 06154 and U.S. Pat. No.5,194,639, and the N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such asC₁₀-C₁₈ N-(3-methoxypropyl) glucamide.

The shampoo composition may also optionally include one or more cationicco-surfactants included in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10, morepreferably from 0.05 to 5, most preferably from 0.05 to 2 wt %.

The total amount of surfactant (including any co-surfactant, and/or anyemulsifier for the silicone component) in shampoo compositions of theinvention is generally from 0.1 to 50, preferably from 5 to 30, morepreferably from 10 to 25 wt %.

Conditioner

Compositions in accordance with the invention may also be formulated asconditioners for the treatment of hair (typically after shampooing) andsubsequent rinsing.

The aqueous treatment composition of the present invention may suitablyinclude a conditioning gel phase, which may be generally characterizedas a gel (Lβ) surfactant mesophase consisting of surfactant bilayers.Such a conditioning gel phase may be formed from a cationic surfactant,a high melting point fatty alcohol and an aqueous carrier. Typically,these components are heated to form a mixture, which is cooled undershear to room temperature. The mixture undergoes a number of phasetransitions during cooling, normally resulting in a gel (Lβ) surfactantmesophase consisting of surfactant bilayers.

Examples of suitable cationic surfactants which are useful for formingthe conditioning gel phase include quaternary ammonium cationicsurfactants corresponding to the following general formula:[N(R¹)(R²)(R³)(R⁴)]⁺(X)⁻in which R¹, R², R³, and R⁴ are each independently selected from (a) analiphatic group of from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or (b) an aromatic,alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylarylgroup having up to 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion suchas those selected from halide, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate,citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, andalkylsulphate radicals.

The aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogenatoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups. The longerchain aliphatic groups, e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, canbe saturated or unsaturated. Specific examples of such quaternaryammonium cationic surfactants of the above general formula arecetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride(BTAC), cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride,tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride,dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride,octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammoniumchloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride,didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammoniumchloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammoniumchloride, dipalmitoylethyldimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2 oleylammoniumchloride and salts of these, where the chloride is replaced by otherhalide (e.g., bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphatenitrate, sulphate, or alkylsulphate.

In a preferred class of cationic surfactant of the above generalformula, R¹ is a C₁₆ to C₂₂ saturated or unsaturated, preferablysaturated, alkyl chain and R², R³ and R⁴ are each independently selectedfrom CH₃ and CH₂CH₂OH, preferably CH₃.

Specific examples of such preferred quaternary ammonium cationicsurfactants for use in forming the conditioning gel phase arecetyltrimethylammonium chloride (CTAC), behenyltrimethylammoniumchloride (BTAC) and mixtures thereof.

Mixtures of any of the above-described cationic surfactants may also besuitable.

The level of cationic surfactant suitably ranges from 0.1 to 10%,preferably from 0.2 to 5% and more preferably from 0.25 to 4% (by weightbased on the total weight of the composition).

By “high melting point” in the context of this invention is generallymeant a melting point of 25° C. or higher. Generally, the melting pointranges from 25° C. up to 90° C., preferably from 40° C. up to 70° C. andmore preferably from 50° C. up to about 65° C.

The high melting point fatty alcohol can be used as a single compound oras a blend or mixture of at least two high melting point fatty alcohols.When a blend or mixture of fatty alcohols is used, the melting pointmeans the melting point of the blend or mixture.

Suitable fatty alcohols of this type have the general formula R—OH,where R is an aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably R is a saturatedaliphatic carbon chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, morepreferably from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and most preferably from 16 to 22carbon atoms.

R can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages,and other groups such as amino groups.

Most preferably, the fatty alcohol has the general formula CH₃(CH₂)_(n)OH, where n is an integer from 7 to 29, preferably from 15 to21.

Specific examples of suitable fatty alcohols are cetyl alcohol, stearylalcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Cetyl alcohol, stearylalcohol and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.

Mixtures of any of the above-described fatty alcohols may also besuitable.

The level of fatty alcohol suitably ranges from 0.01 to 10%, preferablyfrom 0.1 to 8%, more preferably from 0.2 to 7% and most preferably from0.3 to 6% (by weight based on the total weight of the composition).

The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is suitablyfrom 1:1 to 1:10, preferably from 1:1.5 to 1:8, optimally from 1:2 to1:5.

Styling Compositions

Hair treatment compositions in accordance with the invention may alsotake the form of styling compositions.

Preferred product forms are leave on formulations such as gels, waxesand creams.

Alternative styling forms include mousses, sprays and aerosols.

Such styling products frequently include a carrier and furtheradditional components. The carriers and additional components requiredto formulate such products vary with product type and can be routinelychosen by one skilled in the art. The following is a description of someof these carriers and additional components.

Hair care compositions of the present invention can comprise a carrier,or a mixture of such carriers, which are suitable for application to thehair. The carriers are present at from about 0.5% to about 99.5%,preferably from about 5.0% to about 99.5%, more preferably from about10.0% to about 98.0%, of the composition. As used herein, the phrase“suitable for application to hair” means that the carrier does notdamage or negatively affect the aesthetics of hair or cause irritationto the underlying skin.

Compositions according to the invention comprise a buffer or pHadjuster. Preferred buffers or pH adjusters include weak acids and basessuch glycine/sodium hydroxide, citric acid, lactic acid, succinic acid,acetic salt and salts thereof. Frequently a mixture of buffering systemis used such as sodium citrate and citric acid.

Carriers suitable for use with hair care compositions of the presentinvention include, for example, those used in the formulation of hairsprays, mousses, tonics, waters, creams gels, shampoos, conditioners,and rinses. The choice of appropriate carrier will depend on theparticular product to be formulated. The carriers used herein caninclude a wide range of components conventionally used in hair carecompositions. The carriers can contain a solvent to dissolve or dispersethe styling compound being used, with water, the C₁-C₆ alcohols, loweralkyl acetate and mixtures thereof being preferred. The carriers canalso contain a wide variety of additional materials such as acetone,hydrocarbons (such as isobutane, hexane, decene), halogenatedhydrocarbons (such as Freons) and volatile silicones such ascyclomethicone.

When the hair care composition is a hair spray, tonic, gel, or moussethe preferred solvents include water, ethanol, volatile siliconederivatives, and mixtures thereof. The solvents used in such mixturesmay be miscible or immiscible with each other. Mousses and aerosol hairsprays can also utilise any of the conventional propellants to deliverthe material as a foam (in the case of a mousse) or as a fine, uniformspray (in the case of an aerosol hair spray). Examples of suitablepropellants include materials such as trichlorofluoromethane,dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethylether, propane,n-butane or isobutane. A tonic or hair spray product having a lowviscosity may also utilise an emulsifying agent. Examples of suitableemulsifying agents include nonionic, cationic, anionic surfactants, ormixtures thereof. If such an emulsifying agent is used, it is preferablypresent at a level of from about 0.01% to about 7.5% by weight based ontotal weight of the composition. The level of propellant can be adjustedas desired but is generally from about 3% to about 30% by weight basedon total weight for mousse compositions and from about 15% to about 50%by weight based on total weight for aerosol hair spray compositions.

Hair styling waxes, creams or gels also typically contain a structurantor thickener, typically in an amount of from 0.01% to 10% by weight.

Suitable spray containers are well known in the art and includeconventional, non-aerosol pump sprays i.e., “atomisers”, aerosolcontainers or cans having propellant, as described above, and also pumpaerosol containers utilising compressed air as the propellant.

Hair treatment composition of the present invention may also incorporateother optional ingredients to enhance performance and/or consumeracceptability. Suitable optional ingredients include: preservatives,colouring agents, chelating agents, antioxidants, fragrances,antimicrobials, antidandruff agents, cationic conditioning polymers,sunscreens, proteins and hydrolysed proteins.

The compositions of the present invention may also contain adjunctssuitable for hair care. Generally such ingredients are includedindividually at a level of up to 2, preferably up to 1 wt % of the totalcomposition. Suitable hair care adjuncts, include amino acids, sugarsand ceramides.

In a second aspect, the invention relates to use of the compositionaccording to the invention for hair frizz reduction.

In a third aspect, the invention relates to use of the compositionaccording to the invention for hair straightening.

In a fourth aspect, the invention relates to use of N-formyl glycine forhair volume reduction.

In a fifth aspect, the invention relates to use of N-formyl glycine forhair frizz reduction.

The invention is further illustrated with reference to the following,non-limiting Examples.

EXAMPLES Example 1: Effect of N-Formyl Glycine on Hair

Dark brown European wavy hair switches of length 25 cm and weight 2 gms,were treated as follows:

Control: After initial washing, soaked for 30 minutes in water

Comparative Example A: After initial washing, soaked for 30 minutes inaqueous solution of 1% glycine

Example 1: soaked for 30 minutes in aqueous solution of 1% N-formylglycine

At the end of the soaking period, the switches were left to dry at 20°C. and 50% RH. When dried, the switches were straightened with 5 passesof FHI irons (FHI Brands, 29003 Avenue Sherman Valencia, Calif. 91355USA). The switches were then placed in a humidity chamber ˜30 C/80% RHfor 1 hour and images were captured and analyzed. The percentage benefitof the volume compared to their respective water controls are given inTable 1.

TABLE 1 After 1 hour at high humidity (30 C./80% RH) Treatment % shapeand frizz control benefit against control Comparative −6 Example AExample 1 30

It can be seen from the above table that hair switches treated withN-formyl glycine retains shape and controls frizz even after exposure tohigh humidity. Glycine on the other hand are no better than theircontrol.

Example 2: Effect of N-Formyl Glycine on Hair for Long Lasting andDurable Volume Reduction

The switches from the above example were subsequently washed and theimages were captured. It was found that compared to control, N-formylglycine treated switches maintained a 32% benefit over control showingthe long lasting and durable benefit to provide volume reduction. Thecorresponding benefits for glycine was only −10%.

The invention claimed is:
 1. A method for reducing wavy hair frizzcomprising the step of contacting the hair with a an aqueous compositioncomprising N-formyl glycine.
 2. The method according to claim 1 whereinthe aqueous composition comprises 0.5 to 6% by weight of N-formylglycine.
 3. The method according to claim 1 wherein the aqueouscomposition comprises 60 to 99.5% by weight of water.
 4. The methodaccording to claim 1 wherein the composition further comprises sodiumcocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, cocodimethyl sulphopropylbetaine, lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodiumcocamphopropionate or a mixture thereof.